Monday, February 22, 2010

Writing Assignment #6: Trevi

Trevi. The word most likely produces mental images of Oceanus astride his ornate, shell-shaped chariot commanding  the beautiful fountain that bears the name in question. But it is important to remember that Trevi Fountain derives its name from the rione it is located in not the other way around.  Trevi is nearly as ancient as Rome itself, dating back to the original rione's demarcated by the Roman republic. The name is most likely a corruption of the latin word trivium, translating roughly to three ways or three roads.  Historians theorize that this name was due to the three roads that converged upon what is now Piazza dei Crociferi. The symbol of the rione, three horizontal swords in parallel upon a red field, is in keeping with this hypothesis. This is all very dry though, and I am certain that I will have a chance to cover the facts, either in my Rione Project or my Art History Presentation.  Let this be an expression of how I feel about Trevi, the sights and smells, atmosphere and ambience.  I spent today criss-crossing my rione, from Via del Corso to the Palazzo Quirinal and on to Piazza Barberini passing by Trevi Fountain with every swath.   Well let's deal with the elephant in the room first.  Trevi Fountain is any number of adjectives, breath-taking, inspiring, beautiful, and tranquil come to mind.  The fountian seems almost an apparition with the suddeness that it presents itself to the viewer, invisible until one is nearly on top of it.  The frozen marble is juxtaposed by the veritable ant-hill of tourists constantly crawling all around it, throwing money into it, and vying for the primo photography spots. The manner in which I traversed my rione made it so that I approached the fountain from all possible angles, each street providing a unique experience. It was only after numbing myself to the awing effect of the fountain through long bouts of staring that I was able to begin to absorb the rest of Trevi. I cannot help but see Trevi as the heart of Rome, the metaphor is simply too apt.  It is here that the Aqua Virgo, the lifeblood of Rome thunders forth, clean and pure, under Oceanus' watchful eye. The water spreads from this central point flowing out to nourish the people of Rome, much as a human heart pumps blood to the extremities.  Here too is a political heart of sorts, the Quirinal Palace, home to Popes, Kings and Presidents respectively, is within the boundaries of the rione as are a plethora of government buildings.  Trevi also contains the heart of the church in an eerily literal manner.  Located within the church of Saints Vincenzo and Anastasio, which is mere steps from the Fountain, are the hearts of nearly thirty popes from across more than 300 years.  While these are obviously not on display, to the dismay of my morbid curiosity, large plaques flank the high altar listing the pope's whose organs are interred there. This rather strange honor is due to the church being the official parish of Quirinal Palace for the centuries that it was a papal residence. The similarities do not end there, one need only look at a map to see that Trevi is located in a central locale, the "heart" of Rome. It is built upon Quirinal Hill the tallest of the seven hills upon which the city rests. There is a reason that it is to the Trevi that visitors in Rome offer up their wishes to return to the eternal city.

No comments:

Post a Comment